Three Perfect Days In Beijing
Linda Furiya | First appeared in Hemispheres Magazine, Beijing, April 2001

Founded along the banks of the Yongding River in the second millennium B.C., a ragtag frontier outpost would take the next thousand years to ride to the full status of Bei-jing (Northern capital). During the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), the completion of the Forbidden City-the oracle from which the emperor exercised. The mandate of heaven consolidated its position as the first city of Zhongguo (Middle Kingdom of China).

The Northern capital has persevered through history: conquered by Mongol invaders, cultivated by imperial rule, defaced by the children of the Cultural Revolution, and now in its fifth millennium a magnet for global fortune-seekers and modern technology. A colossal 16,808 square kilometers and home to more that 12 million Chinese and ethnic minorities, the capital city is today the supreme epicenter of China’s political educational, and artist life.

Your three perfect days in Beijing trace the cultural heritage of the Northern Capital, as it existed before Mao’s peasant revolution and the more recent Western-inspired modernization. Away from the bustle of traffic, the ringing of mobile phones, and the forest of skyscrapers, you can still stray though unspoiled back-alley neighborhoods, delight at the ravishing Beijing Opera, and explore traditional stores reminiscent of the late Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). Before you know it, you will be bewitched by her lingering romance and charming delight of a bygone era.

DAY ONE/ You will navigate the inner city with ease from your home base, a suite in 1. The Palace Hotel in the heart of Beijing. The hotel’s emerald green-tiled roof and tasteful exterior blend with the district’s architecture, and the hotel’s interior provides all the comforts of home in an elegant, modern décor.

During your three perfect days, there’d no time for fretting over the vernacular. Pick up you itinerary translated into Mandarin, a hotel business card, and a city map from the front desk. These basics will be your communication tools outside the hotel. Just point to your destination. Most of the restaurants will have at least on English menu.

Cabs are inexpensive and convenient, but walking or biking is the way to see real Beijing. Bike rentals, as well as ticket purchases, restaurant reservations, and driver arrangements, can be handled by the hotel.

Street food, such as youtiao (fried dough), is the breakfast of the masses; instead, breakfast at the Palm Court Coffee House where you can choose from Asian and Western fare.

If you’re an early riser, catch the impressive pomp and circumstance of the People’s Liberation Army’s (PLA’s) flag-raising ceremony held every morning at sunrise on 2. Tiananmen Square, just three blocks southwest of the hotel. Late sleepers can come later when the high winds of spring gather countless kites and lift them over the world’s largest square. The rainbow-hued canopy brightens even the gargantuan Stalinist architecture of the Great Hall of the people, the Museum of the Chinese Revolution, and 3. Chairman Mao Memorial Hall enfolding the square. Join the queue, located south behind the monument to the People’s Heroes, that leads you past the crystal sarcophagus where a preserved chairman Mao Zedong still lies a quarter of a century after his death.

Head north toward the ruddy-cheeked portrait of Mao hanging on Tiananmen gates. Arrive there by taking the Qianmen Dajie walkway underpass. Before entering the red doors leading to the 4. Forbidden City (Gugong), rub the large gold studs for good luck.

When you read the Meridian gate, the former royal entrance, rent an audio tour to lead you through the cavernous halls, magnificent pavilions, and rambling courtyards—in totally, 9,999 rooms. Emperor Yongle of the Ming dynasty, the visionary behind this monumental undertaking, had to consider the staff of 70,000 eunuchs, 9,000 concubines and the storage of thousand of priceless works of art. It’s easy to imagine a militia of colorfully dressed attendants, a cavalcade of curtained palanquins, the deafening clang of cymbals and bells, the rustle of mandarin finery, and air heavily perfumed with incense.

Across the northwest corner of the ancient place is the main city park of Beijing, 5. Beihai Park, the emperor’s winter playground. Stroll around the lake where weary urbanites get back to nature with rides on dragon paddleboats. Cross over the Jade Islet, bearing the White Dagoba, a 36-meter-high structure resembling a hand bell--a favorite backdrop for wedding portraits.

You’ve developed a royal appetite by now. Cross the stone bridge near the east entrance of the park to 6. Fangshan Restaurant for extravagant imperial cuisine. Gaze over a set menu of a dozen dishes, including five-spiced fish or slow-cooked abalone with asparagus and green onions, served by waitresses in the dazzling dress of palace handmaidens. Spend the rest of the afternoon exploring the Shishahai Lake district, a unique 700-year-old hutong (an ancient city alley or lane) just north of Beihai Park.

Pedal around or, if you enjoy a more structured approach, have a hotel arrange a 7. guided pedicar (a combination bike and ricksha) hutonng tour. Enjoy the scenery as your drive negotiates dangling clotheslines and tight corners.

After a quick nap or a refreshing dip in the hotel pool, 8. Lijun Beijing Duck House highlights your hutong experience with melt-in-you-mouth roast duck in an authentic courtyard home. Sink our teeth into homemade Heyebing (pancake) lined with duck meat, plum sauce, and scallions. Don’t linger too long over the duck soup finale, for the Beijing Opera awaits.

Possessing the resiliency of an ago-old plum tree, the 300-year-old 9. Zhengyici Theater is one of the few surviving Beijing Opera theaters made entirely of wood. Combining Chinese witticism, martial arts and flamboyant costumes and makeup, the dynamic art form known as jingju rolls up musical drama and comedy into on show.

DAY TWO/ Start your day at the east entrance of the 1. Temple of Heaven Park (Tiantan Gongyuan). Pass tai chi practitioners on the spacious walkways as you make your way to the northernmost sections of the park, dominated by the former sacrificial alter of the hall of prayer of Good Harvest. Constructed of interlocking wood pieces using no nails, the three-tired pagoda is synonymous with Beijing.

Exit from the park’s east side and cross Tiyuguan Lu toward 2. Hongqiao Market. Small stalls overflow with old cigarette ads, vintage wooden rice scoops, and red and black lacquer ware. The third-floor jewelry section draws pearl lovers with its wide offering of fresh- and saltwater pearls.

If your visit falls on a weekend, don’t miss 3. Panjiayuan Dirt Market, a couple of clocks to the east. Mornings are the best time to sift through the communist kitsch, wooden mooncake molds, purple yixing teapots and embroidered robes and tapestries from the Qing Dynasty. Haggling is fierce- down to the mao (cent). This outdoor market is as authentic a Chinese experience as you will find in Beijing.

Drop your purchases off at the hotel before slipping into a quiet booth at the Palace Hotel’s Fortune garden restaurant for a well-deserved dim sum lunch. Share baskets and plates of steamed prawn dumplings, deep-fried shrimp and water chestnuts, and rice flour crepes rolled with sliced fish.

After lunch, walk or bike south to Tiananmen Square to Qianmen Dajie, and then turn on Dashilan, a lane bordered by pretty dark wood beams and brightly painted lintel doorways. The quick-cash reputation of 4. Liulichang Cultural Street originated in the early Ming Dynasty, based on the area’s production and sales of glazed tiles used on the Forbidden City and Temple of Heaven; that marketplace reputation grew when those who flunked imperial examinations came to sell their books and calligraphy kits before returning home. Today, the lane still sells an extensive variety of traditional calligraphy supplies and is a resource for bookbinding and scrolling making. Stop by No.78 for exotic papers and silks and No.30 for beautiful woodblock prints and poetic ink paintings.

A cup of tea and a great view can do wonders for tired feet. Choose from 51 kinds of tea, such as White Snow Princess and the Jade Ring of a Queen at 5. Ji Gu Ge teahouse on the second floors to No. 132-136 Liulichang. From a window table, sip some tea and watch the street activity.

Next, head to the nearby 6. Silk Alley (Xiushui Shicang), where the expat community of Chinese residents alike find great deals on silk lingerie, cashmere items, and brand name men’s and women’s clothing.

Be back in time to catch the 7:15 p.m. 7. Chinese acrobat show at Poly Plaza. A few extra Kwai (dollars) affords juhua cha (chrysanthemum tea), sugared walnuts, and front-row seats to view the world-class athleticism of the 65-child acrobat troupe.

Dinner tonight is at the intimate, elegant 8. Green Tea House. Enjoy the spring evening by walking from Poly Plaza. Head eastward on Gongren Tiyuchang Beilu, and make a left to the festive Sanlitun Jiuba Lu (Beer Drinking Street) where evening revelers crowd the bars ad cafes. Cross Dongzhimenwai Lu and take the side street past the Friendship Store. Tall purple lanterns reveal the location of the small 10-table eatery. Begin with the pear, longevity tea, and walnut salad with minty dressing. The Tofu and chestnuts entrée is simmered in Ceylon tea and Gong Bao JiDing (Sichuan “explosive chicken”) is enhanced with oolong tea.

DAY THREE/ Rise and shine - the 1. Great wall at Mutianyu awaits you. Your picnic lunch and driver, both arranged the previous day, are ready for the 90-minute drive. Of the three main gateways near Beijing Mutianyu has spectacular views without the crowds of Badaling or the breakneck precipices of Simatai.

The climb up the mountain may have deterred the Northern invaders, but you can skip the time-consuming trudge by jumping on the lift. When you get there you’ll understand why the 6,700-kilometer-long stonewall and staggered watchtowers, constructed between 220 B.C. and A.D. 1644, have been compared to the mythical dragon.

Your stomach will be growling by the time your driver takes you to the 2. Summer Palace (Yiheyuan), located in the northwestern suburbs of Haidian District. Enjoy your picnic lunch from the views off Longevity Hill, where dainty pavilions, green hillsides, and sprawling corridors spread below like an exquisite tapestry. Cool breezes from Kunming Lake, shaded stone pathways, and wide-open grassy spaces made this, the emperor’s favorite retreat for his hedonistic three-day parties. Before you leave, marvel at Empress Dowager Cixi’s marble boat “docked” at the north end.

Ochre- and maroon- robed monks worshiping and incense smoldering from bronze urn put you in a spiritual mood as you enter 3. Lama Temple (Yonghegong). Frescoes tell the rich history of the Tibetan Buddhism, and complex woodwork integrates Han, Mongolian and Tibetan carpentry styles.

Your last stop takes you to the offbeat yet mystical 4. Ancient Observatory, located atop a shard of the old wall that once surrounded the city. The gigantic 17th-century bronze astronomical instruments were requisitioned by the Qing Dynasty’s Emperor Kangxi. They were timeless objects d’art, detailed with slithering dragons, cupid’s arrows pointing skyward, and spheres floating on their axes.

As the afternoon slips into evening, your last night in old Beijing is capped with a romantic dinner in a former courtyard home turned art gallery, restaurant, and cigar divan in the shadow of the Forbidden City. Arrive at the 5. Courtyard Restaurant, and, with a glass of sparkling wine, toast the last glow shimmering off the golden palace roof from the upper divan. Start with an appetizer of crispy shrimp with siomai stuffing, and proceed to a main course of salon drizzled with maple soy leek glaze on a mound of spicy couscous with green tomato sauce. Prolong the perfect evening with a moonlit stroll across the Forbidden City moat. Wondering when your footsteps will grace old Beijing again? A quick prayer and a yuan (coin) tossed in the moat ensure a revisit- if not in this life, then the next.