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Sweet, crisp Asian pears capture the season

Wednesday, November 8, 2006

At first glance, the Asian pear reminds me of the coarse-skinned Golden Delicious apples I picked from the orchards near where I grew up. Biting into this crisp, almost melon-flavored fruit, I notice its fragrance and audible crunch make it more like an apple than a pear.

My first encounter with the Asian pear happened about a decade ago, around the time I also came across adorable flat doughnut peaches on Clement Street and Mission figs at the corner grocer next to the Mission District creperie Ti Couz.

I ate Asian pears in abundance when I lived in Shanghai, so it was like seeing an old friend. My enjoyment of the fruit has stayed with me, and each fall I celebrate our reunion by slicing them in salads or just eating them whole.

The Asian pear is the rebel of the pear family. Unlike its cousins, its shape is round, not slim on top and full on the bottom, and idoesn't bruise and brown as easily. Its slightly porous flesh almost squirts watery juice when bitten into. Its uplifting sweet floral flavor tastes fully of pear with an undertone of honeydew. For a long time, I thought all these characteristics were the result of hybridization, but the Asian pear is a pear through and through.

This time of the year, these pears are front and center in my fruit bowl, where I can easily grab one to munch between meals or use for dinner.

As chilly weather approaches, flatbread, the bread made from unleavened dough, has become my dinner plate. It is so easy to use and a great medium for experimentation. Before adding topping, I brush it with anything from soy sauce and maple syrup to plum paste and honey, with fairly tasty results. The one recipe that rises above the others gives a nod to the French combination of pear and blue cheese. My adaptation adds thinly sliced Asian pear, soy sauce-roasted pecans and caramelized onions to the rustic flatbread.

It's a festival for the senses as I bring the chewy flatbread up to my face. The earthy caramelized onions and velvety blue cheese aromas caress my nose. As I take a bite, the sweetness of Asian pear, the crunch of soy sauce-flavored nuts, saltiness of the pungent cheese, and softened onion pirouette across my taste buds.

Appreciating this sensual, hearty combination, I settle in with my glass of chilled white wine to pay homage to the arrival of the holiday season.
 

 
Asian Pear, Caramelized Onions, Blue Cheese & Soy Sauce-Roasted Pecans on Flatbread
SERVES 4

The Asian pears should be sliced thinly and can overlap if you have excess slices. Use your favorite blue cheese; I prefer the creaminess of Maytag. I used a convection oven when baking the flatbread. If using a conventional oven, add a couple more minutes and watch closely.

INGREDIENTS:
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 flatbreads, about 2 ounces and 7 inches in diameter each (see Note)
1 3/4 cups cored, thinly sliced Asian pears
1 cup Caramelized Onions (see recipe)
1/2 cup Maytag blue cheese, crumbled
1 cup Soy Sauce-Roasted Pecans (see recipe)

INSTRUCTIONS:
Preheat oven to 350°. Brush olive oil on the flatbreads and cover with the sliced Asian pears and caramelized onion. Sprinkle with the cheese, then the pecans. Bake in the oven for 10-12 minutes until cheese is melted and pears appear softened. Remove from oven and serve immediately.

NOTE: Flatbreads are available in many well-stocked markets.
PER SERVING: 685 calories, 13 g protein, 74 g carbohydrate, 39 g fat (6 g saturated), 13 mg cholesterol, 754 mg sodium, 4 g fiber.

Caramelized Onions
YIELDS about 1 cup
This easy recipe to makes melt-in-your-mouth caramelized onions.

INGREDIENTS:
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 large Vidalia onion, sliced in 1/4-inch slices
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar

INSTRUCTIONS:
Heat oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions. Cook until tender, about 3-5 minutes. Add vinegar and sugar. Sauting for about 3 minutes, or until golden in color. Put in a bowl and set aside.

Soy Sauce-Roasted Pecans
YIELDS about 1 cup
I used a convection oven when roasting the pecans. The first batch burned, so I watched the second batch carefully removing them from the heat when the nuts appeared dry and shiny.

INGREDIENTS:
2 tablespoons soy sauce
3 teaspoons molasses
1/4 teaspoon five-spice powder
Dash of salt
1 cup pecan halves

INSTRUCTIONS:
Preheat the oven to 350°. In a small mixing bowl, blend the soy sauce, molasses, five-spice powder and salt. Add the pecans to the mixture. Toss thoroughly for about 5 minutes, allowing the nuts to absorb the coating. Drain the excess coating from the nuts by dropping them into a large strainer or colander before spreading them evenly on an aluminum foil-lined baking sheet. Roast the nuts for about 3-4 minutes. The glaze should appear dry and slightly shiny. Remove from the oven and allow to cool on the baking sheet. Carefully peel the nuts from the aluminum foil. Chop the nuts into 1/4-inch pieces.